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KEY WEST, FLORIDA HISTORY: Spanish explorers Ponce de Leon and Antonio de Herrera were the first Europeans to come upon the Florida Keys, in 1513. Little notice was taken of the islands, except by pirates who found them a perfect haven for stashing loot, hiding out and attacking other ships. Key West was not settled until 1822. While the island supported the farming of Key limes, tamarinds, breadfruit and pineapples, many settlers made their real living salvaging cargo found on the many ships sunk on nearby reefs. Vast fortunes were made and Key West became one of the richest cities in the nation. Henry Flagler, the railroad magnate responsible for the development of the coast of eastern Florida, extended his railroad to the Florida Keys in 1905. He engineered the Overseas Railroad, which reached all the way to Key West in 1912, bringing wealthy visitors on vacation. The Seven-Mile Bridge, which links Marathon to the Lower Keys, was quite a technical achievement for its time. Already reliant on tourism dollars, the Keys struggled through the Depression and Key West declared bankruptcy in 1934. The Labor Day hurricane of 1935 took a further toll, tearing up much of Flagler’s railroad. The bridges were eventually adapted to roadways and in 1938, the Overseas Railroad became the Overseas Highway. During World War II, the opening of a submarine base in Key West and the development of a commercial shrimping industry created an economic revival. Notable authors, including Ernest Hemingway, and artists began calling the island home, establishing its reputation as a haven for creativity. Key West’s most recent surge in tourism began in the 1980s and shows no sign of slowing down. SIGHTSEEING: Like a Caribbean island, Key West has palm trees, tropical breezes and lovely coasts. But this southernmost town in the United States has developed a style and flavor all its own. Besides its natural beauty, the small island is renowned for its colorful history, its laid-back residents, its picturesque architecture and its festive party atmosphere. Such an unusual place is bound to have an unusual nickname, and Key West is no exception -- most locals refer to it as the Conch Republic. The term "Conch" refers to just about anything that is native to Key West. You will find conch food, Conch speech, Conch style and just plain Conchs -- the natives of the island. The word also describes a marine gastropod with a pretty shell, a staple in the local diet. Begin your tour on Duval Street, Old Town's main thoroughfare. The area is filled with restaurants, boutiques and assorted landmarks such as the Key West Woman's Club and St. Paul's Episcopal Church. The Wreckers' Museum is situated on Duval Street in one of Key West's oldest houses; it contains fascinating displays of ship models, marine artifacts, historic documents, and paintings and prints. The Little White House, located in the Truman Annex on Front Street, was a favorite working-vacation spot for President Harry S Truman. During his presidency, he spent 175 vacation days at this posh home. The 1890 structure was refurbished during the 1940s and has been completely restored as a presidential museum reflecting that era. Of particular interest is the custom-made mahogany poker table, one of the original furnishings from the Truman period and a reminder of the president's fondness for this form of relaxation. At the corner of Whitehead Street and Truman Avenue sits the Key West Lighthouse, built in 1847. The museum, originally the keeper's quarters when the lighthouse was still operating, displays fascinating artifacts from the days when the lighthouse helped to guide navigators through the dangerous waters around Key West. The lighthouse itself is one of the most rewarding workouts you'll have on the island. A trek up 88 steps leads you to a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean, the Gulf of Mexico and the cruise ships docked in the harbor. Just across the street you will see the Ernest Hemingway House and Museum, filled with mementos that the author brought back from Spain, Africa, Cuba and other exotic locales. The lovely Spanish-colonial house, built in 1870, was Hemingway's home from 1931 until his death in 1961. Frequently scheduled guided tours are often conducted by friends of the famous writer. Of particular note is the 65-foot saltwater swimming pool; it was the first of its kind built in Key West. You can also see the famous Hemingway cats, some of them six- or seven-toed, reputed to be the descendants of Hemingway's beloved pets. There are about 400 of them living around the one-acre estate, lovingly cared for by the museum staff. At the opposite end of Whitehead Street is the Audubon House & Gardens, the 19th-century home of Captain John J. Geiger, a harbor pilot and master wrecker. Saved from demolition in 1958, the house was restored and decorated with period pieces from Europe, then dedicated to John James Audubon. The renowned painter and ornithologist visited the site while drawing the birds of the Florida Keys, painting the almost 200 species of birds that live in Key West or visit annually, including the remarkably adaptable great white heron. The restoration of the house started the movement that helped preserve many of Key West's important historic buildings. Among the things to take note of while visiting are the children's room on the third floor, where you'll find on display two pairs of 19th-century roller skates that bear a striking resemblance to the now-popular in-line skates of today; and the duplex outhouse in the corner of the garden. In the Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society, on Greene Street, there is an extraordinary exhibit of historic and cultural artifacts collected from 17th-century sunken galleons. The exhibit documents Fisher's long search for the Nuestra Señora de Atocha and the Santa Margarita, whose fabulous treasure troves are on view. Among the items you can see on display from the more than $400 million in gold and silver recovered are bars of solid silver, a solid-gold dinner plate, pieces of eight in a cedar chest and sailors' artifacts from the 17th century. For a more interactive look at the history of Key West's wrecking industry, visit the Key West's Shipwreck Historeum, located on Mallory Square at Whitehead Street. The museum is a replica of an 1856 Key West wreckers' warehouse and uses actors, film and technology to tell the story of the wrecking industry and its impact on the island's society. Asa Tift, a famous 19th-century wrecker and builder of the Hemingway House, greets you at the start of your tour and entertains you with fascinating facts and stories about Key West. You can also learn about the wreck of the Issac Allerton in 1956, whose salvaged treasures made Key West "the richest city in the USA" at the time. While it might be challenging to some, the climb up to Tift's Wrecker's Lookout is well worth the nine flights of stairs, as you are met with an incredible view when you reach the top. The Key West Aquarium, on Whitehead Street, is a local institution that allows you to discover the wonders of the Florida reefs -- without getting your feet wet! In operation since 1932 and the oldest open-air facility of its kind in the United States, the aquarium features coral, shells, colorful tropical fish, sharks and other sea life in a dramatic 50,000-gallon tank. Besides the aquarium displays, there are touch pools full of intriguing sea creatures and shark tanks where feedings take place every day. The Curry Mansion Inn, an elegant Victorian structure on the corner of Caroline and Ann streets, was originally the home of William Curry, Florida's first millionaire. For an interesting museum that embodies the offbeat, eccentric nature of Key West, head out on South Roosevelt Boulevard to the East Martello Museum, located near the airport. Originally a Civil War fort, the structure was converted to a museum housing a variety of amusing and sometimes bizarre objects. Among the things you'll find here are a horse-drawn hearse and wicker casket from 1873; Native American exhibits; Civil War and Spanish-American War artifacts; a hotel safe; "junkyard" art by Stanley Papio (a character himself); a deep-sea diver's air suit with a wooden air pump; and even a crude raft used by Cubans to escape the Castro regime. Children will delight in the "junior museum" located on the grounds, a tiny house built just to their scale. A climb up the spiral staircase in the lookout tower offers a lovely view of the Atlantic Ocean.
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